ISSUE 15: I'M TIRED OF "MEDIUM-SIZED SHARED PLATES"
The dining trend we can't resist. Or can't escape?
OH, YOU WANT ME TO “SHARE?”
LET’S DISCUSS.
*Restaurant name has been changed because I will probably go back.
Last week, I went to see a play with a good friend. We agreed to do dinner before, but there was limited-to-no availability at a buzzy new restaurant we were eyeing called Mama’s Cream Puff Chalet.*
The day of the play, I snagged a last minute table that popped up on Open Table after someone’s wife went into labor. I’m assuming that’s what happened, why else would you drop a coveted reservation at Mama’s Cream Puff Chalet?
I was so excited to have gotten the reservation that I did not consider what was about to ensue.
Upon sitting down, we heard the opening spiel that is now as common at restaurants as Nicole Kidman’s promo video is in AMC theaters. Rather than “we come to this place for magic,” our server said the words I feared the most: “We encourage sharing at this restaurant.”
We ordered the trout, the carrots, the snap peas, and the potatoes — all more elaborate than I’m making them sound. Initially, we hadn’t added the snap peas, but our server looked at us with a little bit of concern and said “mmmm yeah, I’d recommend you add one more.”
The dishes began to arrive. I’m not gonna lie—they were probably some of the tastiest plates I’ve had in a while. A kaleidoscopic mix of flavor, texture, and you know, that certain…je ne sais quoi.
I got the hype. But when we finished all the plates that we ordered, the crushing reality set in that I was still a hungry hungry hippo. I withheld ordering more, anticipating that the bill was already high, and I probably didn’t need another bespoke vegetable dish for $18.
I left pleased yet hungry.
I REALLY THIS A VERY “DAD” TAKE
Ask any of my friends: I am probably the last person to complain about the price of food. If it’s good food, I will pay for it. I love going out to eat, I love eating in with high-quality ingredients. When they said “oh, she ATE!” That’s me.
So, I feel a need to say that. Also, not that there’s anything wrong with people who don’t want to spend a lot on food, but that’s just something I like to put my money towards.
Nevertheless, a can of worms opened in my mind about why every new restaurant still seems to be a “medium-sized shared plates” vibe.
Are consumers asking for this? Or is this a way for “elevated” restaurants to jump on a trend that seems to be…well, at a higher price tag for consumers for a little less food.
Tell me your brain doesn’t explode when every dish is $15-18, and they recommend 3-4 dishes per person. I mean, it’s emotional, or at the very least…thought provoking.
A LOOK AT THE TREND
It’s probably inconclusive, but the “tapas” trend became more popular in the US after the turn of the century. If you’re Gen Z, that means after 2000. (Do I have any Gen Z readers? Pop off slay mama.) It seems as though the US took a facet of Spanish cuisine and applied it across others that should’ve never been made for that format.
I remember being in college and hearing about—then going to— these “tapas” restaurants. Wowww so trendy. Sorry guys, gotta study for my stats quiz after these ~tapas~.
In DC, where I went to college, José Andres’ restaurants were on the rise. First with the proper Spanish restaurant Jaleo, and then Oyamel (tapas/small plates—but Mexican), and then Zaytinya (small plates—but Mediterranean/Greek!). The format became the trend. Because it was the trend, they were popular. And still are(?) I don’t know, I don’t live there anymore.
Over time, those small plates (maybe 3-5 per person) became medium plates (2-4 per person). And that is sort of the world we’re living in now.
Medium-sized shared plates.
IS IT ABOUT ~CONNECTION?~
I love when servers tell you it’s a shared plates restaurant, and the vibe is like “we foster connection here. We bring people together. You two? Gonna fuck.”
At first, meaning years ago, I was like oh, that’s so cute. I’m down to ~share~. Like a party!
Now, I’m becoming an old withered hag and I don’t really care about fostering a connection. That is, via a shared plate. I can no longer handle the emotional labor of worrying if I’m taking too many of our shared snap peas. Oh, there’s a remaining potato on our shared plate? Hell.
I want a plate squarely in front of me, so I can shovel my entrée into my mouth with my elbows at a 90 degree angle, savoring my personal little treat as I gatekeep it from everyone else at my table. Sure, they can have a little taste, but boundaries are RESPECTED.
There’s that moment where you open up and ask your dining partner if they’d like a little taste. You share. And then you go back to your plate, the decision you committed to for the night.
So refreshingly, instead of connecting over a fork fight on the table, you connect over something you talk about, something probably more traumatic.
I also want to add that I feel like there’s probably something psychological going on here that I would need a PhD to explore. But I will try: Does lots of little plates make you feel like you’re not getting enough? It’s like when you don’t eat before a party because you thought there was going to be a full dinner there. But when you show up, all you see is a charcuterie plate and celery, and you came hungry. Sure you could probably eat the same amount of food that might equate to a whole-ass meal, but something about the snacky vibe just makes it feel…snacky. Not satiating. This could also just be a “me” thing…which is also probably why I never really aligned with the “girl dinner” notion.
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If it is going to be about connection and sharing, make it a legit family style restaurant where there is a plethora of food, giant salad bowls, more meats than I can stomach, and not 5 asparagus stems for us to bond over.
QUICK SIDE NOTE ABOUT DATING & SHARED PLATES
There is literally no greater hell than when you’re on a first/early on date with someone, and it’s a shared plates restaurant.
That’s all on that. Pop off in the comments if you agree.
IT SEEMS THE TIDES ARE TURNING
I found similar sentiments in this story from The Guardian, where the writer and her friends decided FUCK IT. We’re going to a big plate Italian restaurant where you get stuffed to the gills. Comically, she also mentions that the last time they went to a small plates restaurant, they drank too much, ate too little, and her drunk friend fell on and smashed her TV.
Shared plates = destruction.
But in all seriousness, don’t you think there’s something peaceful about choosing an entrée you have all to yourself? nd yes, I am an only child.
Do you like shared plates restaurant? Are you tired of them? Is there a time and a place? Let me know in the comments!!
THAT’S ALL FOR THIS WEEK!
I have a sketch comedy show tonight at The Pack if you wanna come. Here’s the link to TICKETS!
If anyone wants to go to a big daddy leather booth restaurant where we each order our own entrées and love it, let me know.
See you next week,
LJ
Also, Erin sent me here! And I'm forever grateful...you had me DYIN! It's the 90 degree elbows for me!!!!
I believe there is a time and a place for shared plates restaurants.
Time: Never
Place: Nowhere
You had me DYIN'